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<\/p>\nA healthy, well-established lawn can out-compete most weeds and withstand a certain amount of stress from drought, insects, and disease.<\/p>\n
Lawns can often be renovated with proper fertilizing, mowing, watering, and addressing problems with thatch and soil compaction.<\/p>\n
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Here are some healthy lawn care tips:<\/strong><\/p>\n Fertilizing Guidelines\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n If you don’t fertilize your lawn and you like the way it looks, then do not fertilize. \u00a0If you do fertilize, follow the recommendations below:<\/p>\n Recommendations for Managing Nitrogen ( N ) on Lawns<\/strong><\/p>\n Recommendations for Managing Phosphorus ( P ) on Lawns<\/strong><\/p>\n If phosphorus fertilizer is required:<\/p>\n Other Nitrogen and Phosphorus Management Tips:<\/strong><\/p>\n Proper Application Methods<\/strong><\/p>\n URI Plant Protection Clinic<\/a>: (401) 874-2900 Soil Compaction, Thatch and Mowing<\/strong><\/p>\n Healthy Lawn Care and Renovation<\/a><\/p>\n Additional Resources<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.uri.edu\/ce\/healthylandscapes\/drop%2Bleaf_small_trans.gif\"){kind=spacer}
Do not apply before spring green-up and apply no later than October 15th. Avoid mid-summer fertilizing.<\/p>\nApply one-half to one-third (or less) of that recommended on the fertilizer bag label and then monitor lawn response. Re-apply at the reduced rate only when lawn response starts to fall below acceptability.<\/p>\nSlow-release fertilizers are preferable to soluble, fast- release ones.<\/p>\nApply a maximum of 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year on an established lawn 10 years old or older. Newly seeded turf, especially on new home sites where the topsoil has been removed, may require more.<\/p>\nIf a soil test indicates phosphorus \u00a0and\/or potassium are adequate, then fertilize with only nitrogen. If only blended fertilizers are available, choose the one with the lowest P content.<\/p>\nAlways test the soil to determine phosphorus \u00a0levels before applying. Soil test annually for phosphorus when applying organic fertilizers derived from composts to ensure that levels do not become too high.<\/p>\nAvoid using phosphorus fertilizers on bare ground, unless it is a new seeding.<\/p>\nUse phosphus-free fertilizer on established lawns, unless soil tests indicate that phosphorus is too low.<\/p>\nAvoid applying phosphorus fertilizers when moderate to heavy rain is in the forecast.<\/p>\nNever apply phosphorus fertilizers to saturated or frozen ground.<\/p>\nReturn clippings and mow as high as possible (leave at least 3 inches). Clippings can supply slow-release nitrogen to the lawn and allow for reduced fertilizer applications. On a well-established lawn, this can often supply adequate P and K for the lawn.<\/p>\nChoose grasses, such as\u00a0fescues<\/a>, that require less water and nutrient inputs.<\/p>\nMaintain a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0. This will ensure that most of the nutrients necessary for good turfgrass growth will be available to the grass plants. Monitor pH levels to determine if liming is necessary or not.<\/p>\nConsider seeding white clover or other legumes into the lawn to naturally provide nitrogen.<\/p>\nIf supplemental watering is applied, avoid overwatering. Do not exceed a total of 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall amounts.\u00a0Water wisely.<\/a><\/p>\nLeave a\u00a0buffer strip<\/a>\u00a0of at least 25 feet of unfertilized grasses or other vegetation around water bodies (streams, rivers, lakes, estuaries, bays, coastal areas, vernal pools, wetlands, or drainage areas).<\/p>\nAvoid using combination products that include both fertilizer and weed killers as the application rates of such products are based on the weed killer rather than the fertilizer. Pesticides should not be applied within 25 feet of surface water.<\/p>\nWhen establishing a new lawn, organic matter content should range from 3% to preferably 5%. Incorporate compost or another organic material into the soil to raise the organic matter content as needed.<\/p>\nIt is very important to measure the actual area to be treated with fertilizers and\/or pesticides and to calibrate your spreader. This ensures that you are applying the amount of product that you intend.<\/p>\nAvoid spreading fertilizer on paved areas or near storm drains or\u00a0drinking water wells<\/a>. Sweep up these areas with a broom, do not wash with a hose.<\/p>\nA drop spreader allows for more accurate application of fertilizers and pesticides.<\/p>\nCompost and other organic fertilizers are still sources of nutrients, so they must be applied at the proper rate and time using proper application methods.<\/p>\nUse the following practices when controlling pests:<\/p>\n\n
\nAssistance with identification of plant insects and disease<\/p>\nSoil compaction and thatch build-up result in shallow roots and reduces water and air flow flow into the soil. Mechanical soil aeration, vertical mowing (thatch removal) and coring can help loosen compacted soil. Soil compaction in your yard can result from frequent vehicle access and foot and animal traffic.<\/p>\nThatch is a dense layer of dead grass, stems and roots that develops between the soil surface and the growing grass. While some thatch is normal and desired, excessive thatch problems are often a sign of over-watering and improper mowing. Mechanical de-thatching in the early fall is recommended for lawns with more than one inch of thatch build-up.<\/p>\nProper mowing at the correct heights and frequencies with a sharp blade is very important for lawn health. Mowing at heights between 2 and 3 inches is best to encourage deeper roots, discourage weeds and reduce evaporation.<\/p>\nDownload a Printable Factsheet:<\/h4>\n